Author: Andrew Jenkins

Roofer Installing Solar Panels On House Resized

How Much Does A Roof Inspection Cost In Minnesota?

Written by Andrew Jenkins on February 4, 2025. Posted in Roofing. No Comments on How Much Does A Roof Inspection Cost In Minnesota?

Planning to have your roof inspected in Minnesota?

If you’re looking to stay on top of maintenance or check for any damage after a rough winter, getting a roof inspection is a smart idea.

But before scheduling an inspection, you might be asking: How much is this going to cost?

In this guide, we’ll break down how much a roof inspection costs in Minnesota and the things that affect the price. Plus, we’ll also break down our roof inspection prices.

Average Roof Inspection Cost In Minnesota

A roof inspection in Minnesota costs around $75 to $600 depending on the kind of inspection you’re after.

For a standard visual check, you’re likely looking at the lower end of that range, but if you’re opting for a more detailed inspection, you might pay a bit more.

Here’s a quick breakdown of the different types:

Physical roof inspection: $75 – $200
Drone roof inspections: $100 – $400
Infrared roof inspections: $400 – $600

Our Minnesota Roof Inspection Prices

At Craftsmen Home Improvements, we offer FREE roof inspections for all new clients!!

Our free inspection includes a thorough assessment of your roof’s condition, which will help us determine if it needs repairs, maintenance, or a full replacement.

After the inspection, we’ll provide you with a clear, no-obligation recommendation for the best course of action based on what we find.

No hidden charges – just honest, professional advice to help you make the best choice.

Check Out Our: Roof Inspections

Factors That Affect The Cost Of A Roof Inspection

There are a few things that influence how much you’ll pay for a roof inspection.

Let’s go over them one by one:

#1 Type Of Roof Inspection

Some roof inspections are pretty basic. You might just need someone to check if there are any obvious problems.

But if you’re dealing with a complicated situation or need a detailed report, the price can rise.

A visual inspection will usually be cheaper, while an in-depth inspection, which includes looking at the attic, insulation, and possibly even using thermal imaging, will cost more.

You may also pay extra for drone inspections if they’re used to avoid climbing.

#2 Roof Size

The size of your roof is a big deal when it comes to cost.

A small, simple roof on a single-story home is much easier to inspect than a large, multi-level roof on a bigger house.

Think about it— a small roof takes less time to check, so it’s cheaper.

But if your roof has a lot of surface area, or if it’s on a large property, it’s going to take longer for the inspector to go over everything, and that extra time will cost you.

Also, if you have multiple sections to your roof or complex designs, like dormers or extensions, the inspector will need to look over more areas, which can bump the price up.

Larger roofs just take more work to inspect, and that’s reflected in the cost.

#3 Roof Complexity

A roof’s complexity can seriously affect the cost of your inspection.

Roofs that are simple and flat are much easier to check than ones with lots of peaks, valleys, and slopes, so they are cheaper.

If your roof has intricate details like skylights, chimneys, or multiple layers, it’s a lot more work for the inspector to go over every part carefully. This usually means a higher price.

And if your roof is particularly old or has any custom features, the inspector may have to spend more time looking for hidden issues.

#4 Roof Accessibility

Accessibility matters too.

If your roof is easy to reach, like a standard sloped roof, the inspection will be quicker and simpler. But for higher or steeper roofs, it takes more effort.

That’s more time, more work, and more money.

Sometimes, accessibility issues come from the surrounding area. For example, if you have a lot of trees, power lines, or other obstacles around your house, it could take extra time to set up for the inspection.

This means you might pay a little more to cover the extra prep.

#5 Climate

Minnesota’s weather is definitely a factor to keep in mind when scheduling a roof inspection.

If you’ve had a long, brutal winter with snow, ice, and freezing temps, the roof inspector will need to take extra care to look for damage. This can be a more involved process, especially if ice dams or snow buildup has caused issues.

Sometimes, the inspector might even need to remove ice or snow to check certain parts of the roof, and that adds to the cost.

So, depending on the season and recent weather patterns, your cost could increase.

#6 Your Location

Where you live in Minnesota can also affect what you pay for a roof inspection.

Areas like Minneapolis and St. Paul, which are larger cities, tend to have higher costs for services in general. This is because businesses there have higher overhead costs, like rent, labor, and other expenses.

So, you might find that inspections are a bit pricier in these areas.

On the flip side, in more rural areas, you might pay less for an inspection, but there’s also a chance that inspectors will have to travel further to get to your place.

Sometimes that travel time and distance get added to the final price.

Also Read: Can you put new siding over old wood siding

#7 Company Or Inspector

Lastly, the company or inspector you hire will also affect the final price.

Big companies with a lot of employees and overhead (like office space and marketing) often charge more for their services.

They might have more resources, but that convenience comes with a higher price tag.

Independent inspectors or smaller companies may be a bit more affordable, but you might not get the same range of services or guarantees that come with larger companies.

It’s all about balancing price with what’s included in the inspection.

Just make sure to ask about the services they’ll provide and if there’s any extra cost for things like a detailed report or additional photos.

Wrapping Up

A roof inspection can cost anywhere between $75 and $600 in Minnesota.

But in the end, the exact cost depends on a lot of different factors. From the type of roof to the climate to your location, there are plenty of things that can affect the final price.

The good news is that roof inspections are generally affordable.

So, if you’re thinking about getting an inspection, don’t let the price throw you off.

Get a few quotes, ask about the services included, and you’ll be all set! Or if you’re in the Twin Cities, just give Craftsmen Home Improvements a call!

FAQs

How Much Does A Roof Certification Cost In Minnesota?

A roof certification in Minnesota typically costs between $75 – $200.

The price can vary depending on the size of the roof and the inspector, but it’s generally a one-time fee for the certification.

How Long Does A Roof Inspection Take?

A standard roof inspection in Minnesota usually takes about 45 minutes to 2 hours. The exact time can depend on the size and complexity of your roof.

Siding Vinyl Wall Background Texture | Gps Coordinates: 45.221861, 93.050069

Can You Put New Siding Over Old Wood Siding?

Written by Andrew Jenkins on January 11, 2025. Posted in Siding. No Comments on Can You Put New Siding Over Old Wood Siding?

Thinking about sprucing up your home’s exterior, but you’re not sure if you should tear down that old wood siding or just slap some new siding right over it?

Honestly, it’s a tough call.

On one hand, completely replacing the siding gives you a clean slate and a guarantee of a durable, long-lasting exterior.

On the other hand, overlaying new siding over the old can seem like a convenient, cost-effective solution… but what if it’s just a recipe for disaster down the line?

In this quick post, we’ll help you decide if you should put new siding over old wood siding.

Can You Put New Siding Over Old Wood Siding?

The short answer is yes, you can put new siding over old wood siding.

But hold on, it’s not as simple as just going for it. There are a few things you need to check first.

Your old wood siding needs to be in great shape – no rot, no mold, and no major damage. Plus, it should be pretty flat and even so the new siding has a nice surface to stick to.

Also Check Out Our: Vinyl Siding Installation Services

If you’ve got those boxes checked, then you might be able to save some time and money by putting new siding right over the old stuff.

But don’t get too excited yet – there’s more to think about before you make your decision.

Things To Consider Before Putting New Siding

Here are a few things you should consider before making a decision:

#1 Condition Of Old Siding

Before you even think about putting new siding over the old stuff, you gotta make sure the wood underneath is solid.

Any signs of rot, mold, or damage? Those need to be dealt with first.

If your old siding is falling apart, putting new siding over it is just asking for trouble. You could end up with moisture getting trapped and causing even more damage.

So, before you do anything, take a good, hard look at your old siding.

Check for any hidden problems too, like bugs or structural issues.

If you find any damaged spots, you’ll need to fix those up before you even think about putting on new siding.

#2 Moisture Barriers

If you’re going to put new siding over old, you need to think about moisture. You don’t want water getting trapped between the old and new siding – that’s a recipe for mold and rot.

So, you’ll need to put in a moisture barrier.

Think of it like a raincoat for your house. It keeps water from sneaking in and causing trouble.

Without this barrier, you could be setting yourself up for some serious problems down the road.

#3 New Siding Material

The type of new siding you pick is super important for making sure this project goes smoothly.

Some types, like vinyl, can work well over old wood siding if everything’s in good shape and you’ve got that moisture barrier in place.

But here’s a heads up: some siding manufacturers might not be too happy if you install their product over old siding. In fact, they might even say your warranty is no good if you do.

So, it’s a good idea to talk with a pro about what kind of siding will work best for your situation.

#4 Wall Thickness

Here’s something you might not have thought about: putting new siding over old is going to make your walls thicker. No big deal, right? Well, it can be.

You might find that your windows and doors don’t fit quite right anymore.

You might even need to adjust them or get new ones to match your thicker walls.

So, think about how this change might affect the look of your house and maybe even how well it keeps the heat in or out.

#5 Aesthetic And Structural Concerns

Sure, putting new siding over old might save you some cash now, but think about the long-term.

Will it make your house look a bit off?

Could it affect how much your home is worth?

And what about when you need to do repairs or maintenance in the future?

It might make things trickier. So, you’ve got to weigh whether saving some money now is worth any potential headaches down the road.

#6 Permits And Local Building Codes

Before you get too carried away with your siding plans, you need to check in with the people at your local building department.

Some areas may have rules about siding – they might say you can layer it, or they might tell you that you have to take the old stuff off first.

You need to comply with these regulations. It’s not just about following the rules (which is important!), it’s also about making sure your home is safe and up to standards.

#7 Void Warranties

Here’s something that’s easy to forget about: warranties.

Some siding companies might say their warranty is no good if you put their siding over old siding.

That means if something goes wrong, you’re on your own.

So, make sure you read the fine print on your new siding and maybe even give the manufacturer a call to see how your installation plans might affect your coverage.

When To Remove Old Wood Siding Before Installing New

While putting new siding over old can work in some situations, there are times when you really should just tear off the old wood siding before putting up the new one.

You might need to take off the old siding first if:

The old siding is rotting, moldy, or seriously damaged
You’re worried about hidden problems like bugs or water damage
Your local building codes say you have to remove the old siding
You want your home to be as energy efficient and good-looking as possible
The new siding you picked isn’t meant to be installed over old siding
You want to keep the full warranty on your new siding

Wrapping Up

Deciding whether to put new siding over old wood siding is a big deal.

It might save you some money and time upfront, but it also comes with some risks and things to think about for the future.

You’ve got to really look at your old siding, think about moisture issues, consider how it’ll change your walls, and make sure you’re following all the rules. And don’t forget about those warranties!

Talk to a pro, do your homework, and think about what’s best for your home in the long run.

FAQs

Should You Put Vinyl Siding Over Wood Siding?

Yes, you can put vinyl siding over wood siding as long as the wood is in good shape. Just make sure it’s clean, smooth, and free from any damage like rot.

Can You Put New Siding Over Old Siding On A Mobile Home?

Yes, you can install new siding over old siding on a mobile home, but then again, it’s important to ensure the existing siding is in good condition.

You might need to add a moisture barrier or some insulation before putting the new siding on.

Windows Wet Glass Due To High Humidity | Gps Coordinates: 44.741207, 93.326588

Who To Call For Leaking Windows? (Solved)

Written by Andrew Jenkins on January 11, 2025. Posted in Windows. No Comments on Who To Call For Leaking Windows? (Solved)

Noticed a bit of unwelcome water creeping in through your window? Don’t panic! A leaking window can feel like a major headache, but with the right help, it’s totally fixable.

The tricky part? Figuring out exactly who to call.

Should you ring up a handyman, or is this more of a job for a specialist?

In this post, I’ll give you a quick rundown of who to call for leaking windows, depending on how bad the leak is.

Handyman

If you’ve got a small leak or just need a quick fix, you should call a handyman.

These guys know how to do lots of different home repairs, including basic window repair.

They can check out what’s going on, figure out where the water’s coming from, and do things like replace weatherstripping, seal up gaps, or fix minor damage to the frame.

The best part? They usually don’t charge as much as specialists, so that’s a win for your wallet if the problem isn’t too complicated.

Just keep in mind that if the issue turns out to be more serious, you might need someone else.

General Contractors

If you think your leaking window might be part of a bigger problem, or you’re just not sure how bad it is, you should call a general contractor. An exterior contractor should be fine too.

These guys know a ton about building and fixing homes.

They’ll look at your window, sure, but they’ll also check out the area around it to see if there’s something else going on that’s causing the leak.

If the water has messed up your walls or floors, these guys can handle all that too.

They can take care of everything that needs to be done to fix up your home!

Window Installation Companies

Sometimes, the problem is the window itself. Maybe it wasn’t installed right in the first place, or maybe it’s just old and worn out.

That’s when you want to talk to a window installation company.

Check Out Our Window Replacement And Installation Services

These are the window experts. They know all about different types of windows and what makes them tick (or leak, in this case). They can figure out exactly what’s wrong and fix it.

If your window is beyond repair, they can help you pick out a new one that’ll keep the water out and might even help you save on energy bills. Bonus!

Emergency Plumbers Or Roofers

Sometimes what looks like a leaking window isn’t actually the window’s fault at all.

If you notice water coming in when it rains hard, or you think the water might be coming from above the window, you might want to call an emergency plumber or roofer.

They can check if the problem is actually a leaking pipe in the wall or an issue with your roof (like ice dams or damaged shingles) that’s letting water travel down to your window.

If you’ve got water gushing in suddenly, these are the people you want to call right away to prevent a full-on home disaster.

Water Mitigation Contractors

Okay, so let’s say your leaky window has already caused some damage. That’s when you might want to call in a water mitigation contractor.

These guys know how to deal with water damage.

They’ve got special tools to find hidden moisture, they can get the water out of places you didn’t even know it could go, and they make sure everything’s dry so you don’t end up with a mold problem later.

They can also give you tips on how to keep water out in the future and might work with other pros to solve your leaky window problem once and for all.

Wrapping Up

Dealing with a leaky window isn’t fun, but it is what it is.

Who you should call really depends on how bad the leak is and what else is going on.

For small stuff, a handyman or general contractor should be able to take care of it. If things are looking more serious, you might need window specialists, or water mitigation experts.

The main thing is to get someone on the job before that little leak turns into a big problem.

Good luck, and here’s hoping your home stays dry!

FAQs

Window Leak Repair Cost

It costs around $100 – $600 on average to fix a window leak. The exact cost depends on the cause, type of window and extent of the problem.

Can Leaking Windows Be Repaired?

Yes, leaking windows can often be repaired. The most common ways to fix leaking windows are:

Recaulking the window
Replacing damaged seals
Repairing or replacing flashing
Sealing gaps and cracks
Cleaning and unclogging weep holes

Who To Call For A Broken Window?

For a broken window, your best bet is to call a glass repair company or a window installer. These pros can quickly assess the damage and either repair or replace the broken glass.

Mold Infestation On Plastic Window In Wet Conditions Resized

Gap Between Window And Frame (Here’s Why And What To Do)

Written by Andrew Jenkins on January 9, 2025. Posted in Windows. No Comments on Gap Between Window And Frame (Here’s Why And What To Do)

Have you noticed a gap between your window and its frame?

They’re pretty common, but they can cause some headaches if you don’t take care of them. These little spaces might let in cold air, make your heating bills go up, or even let water sneak in.

In this post, we’re going to look at why these gaps show up in the first place. Plus, I’ll show you how to fill the gap between window and frame.

Why Is There A Gap Between Window And Frame?

There are a few reasons why you might see gaps between your windows and frames.

Some of these gaps are actually supposed to be there, but others can cause problems and need to be fixed. Let me explain:

Also Read: Who to call for leaking window

Standard Installation Gap

When windows are being installed, the crew will usually leave a small gap between the window frame and the rough opening in the wall on purpose.

This gap is usually about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (that’s around 6 to 12 mm).

It might seem odd, but it’s there for a good reason.

This gives room for the materials to expand and shrink a bit when the temperature changes and also lets the building settle or shift slightly over time without messing up the window.

Don’t worry, though – this gap gets filled with insulation and sealed up to keep drafts and moisture out, so your window still works efficiently.

Foundation Movement

One of the main reasons you might see noticeable gaps is because of your foundation settling.

As your building’s foundation moves over time, which can happen because of the soil, moisture changes, or other stuff going on outside, it can make your whole house shift a little.

This movement can throw off the alignment of your window frames.

Gaps like these can let air in, and they might be a sign of bigger structural issues that need attention.

Poor Installation Practices

Sometimes, gaps between windows and frames happen simply because whoever installed them didn’t do it right. If windows aren’t shimmed or leveled properly during installation, it can lead to gaps and alignment issues.

Ideally, gaps shouldn’t be bigger than 1/4 inch on any side of the window.

When the installation isn’t done carefully, you can end up with bigger gaps that make it hard for the window to seal tightly against the outside.

Also Check Out Our: Window Installation Services

How To Fix Gap Between Window And Frame

Fixing these gaps is super important to keep your home energy-efficient and comfortable.

The way you fix them depends on how big the gap is and what caused it. Here are some effective ways to tackle the problem:

#1 Weather Stripping

If you’ve got small gaps, especially between the part of the window that moves (the sash) and the frame, weather stripping can work great.

It’s pretty easy to apply and does a good job of insulating against drafts.

You can get weather stripping in different materials like foam, felt, or rubber, and it’s easy to cut to size and stick along the edges of the window sash or frame.

This makes a nice tight seal when you close the window, stopping air from leaking out.

#2 Caulking

Caulking works well for sealing up small gaps, usually ones up to about 1/4 inch wide.

Using a caulk that can stretch without cracking (like an elastomeric one) is a good idea, especially for areas that might move a bit over time.

To use caulk, clean the area really well first, then use a caulk gun to squeeze a solid line of caulk along the gap. Smooth it out with a wet finger or a caulking tool to make it look nice and stick well.

This method is perfect for sealing gaps around the window frame where it meets the wall, both inside and outside your house.

#3 Backer Rod And Caulk

For medium-sized gaps, usually between 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch, using a backer rod with caulk can give you a really good seal.

To use it, push a foam backer rod into the gap. This rod makes a backing for the caulk to sit on and helps stop the caulk from sticking on three sides, which can make it fail over time.

After you put in the backer rod, put caulk over it to create a seal that keeps out the weather.

This method works great for bigger gaps that caulk alone might not fill well.

Also Read: Can you put new siding over old wood siding?

#4 Non-Expanding Foam

Non-expanding foam is an awesome choice for filling medium to large gaps without risking messing up your window frame.

Unlike regular expanding foam, this type is made specifically for use around windows and doors.

It fills the gap but doesn’t push hard on the stuff around it, which is super important for keeping your window working right.

To use it, clean out the gap really well, then carefully squirt the foam in, following what the instructions on the can say. Once it dries, trim off any extra foam so it’s flat with the surface.

#5 Expanding Foam

For bigger gaps, usually over 1/2 inch, expanding foam insulation can work well.

But, you gotta be careful with this stuff. Expanding foam can push really hard as it dries, which could potentially warp your window frame if you don’t use it right.

When you use expanding foam, apply it sparingly because it will expand to fill the space.

Start by only partially filling the gap, leaving room for it to grow. Once it’s dry, you can add more if you need to.

After the foam has totally expanded and dried, trim off any extra to make a nice smooth surface.

Wrapping Up

Gaps between windows and frames can happen for all sorts of reasons.

Some gaps are meant to be there and are important for your window to work right, but others can cause energy loss, drafts, and maybe even water damage.

So figure out what’s causing the gap and fix it.

Remember, while you can do many of these fixes yourself, bigger gaps or those caused by structural issues might need a professional to take a look and fix them.

1/2 Or 5/8 Roof Sheathing?

Written by Andrew Jenkins on November 1, 2024. Posted in Roofing. No Comments on 1/2 Or 5/8 Roof Sheathing?

Are you scratching your head over whether to go with 1/2″ or 5/8″ roof sheathing?

Don’t worry, you’re not alone. It’s a decision that can make a big difference in how your roof holds up over the years, and it’s got a lot of people debating.

But fear not – this post is here to help!

I’ll compare both these sizes and help you nail down the best choice for your situation.

1/2″ Vs 5/8″ Roof Sheathing

The main difference between 1/2″ and 5/8″ roof sheathing is that 1/2″ is lighter, cheaper, easier to install, and is great for areas with moderate weather conditions.

On the other hand, 5/8″ sheathing offers greater strength and durability, better resistance to extreme weather and performs better long-term.

Let me go over these in more detail:

Also Read: Who to call for leaking window

#1 Climate And Weather Conditions

Where you live plays a big part in choosing your roof sheathing thickness.

If you’re in an area with pretty normal weather, 1/2 sheathing usually does the trick for most homes.

It’ll keep the rain out and stand up to regular winds just fine.

But if you’re in a place that gets hit by nasty weather like hurricanes, tons of snow, or super strong winds, you might want to think about going with 5/8″ sheathing.

It’s tougher and can handle those extreme conditions better.

For example, lots of folks in central Florida, where hurricanes are a real concern, are choosing 5/8″ to make their roofs stronger and safer.

#2 Roof Pitch And Design

The steepness of your roof and how it’s designed are also important things to think about.

For roofs that aren’t too steep (think a 6:12 pitch or less), 1/2″ sheathing usually works well, especially if your rafters or trusses are pretty close together (16 inches or less).

This setup is good enough for most homes in areas without crazy weather.

But if your roof is steeper (more than a 6:12 pitch) or the rafters are further apart (24 inches or more), you might want to go with 5/8″ sheathing.

It’s stronger and helps keep everything nice and straight.

This is really important for complicated roof designs with lots of angles and intersections.

Also check out our Roofing Services in Edina

#3 Structural Integrity And Long-Term Performance

5/8″ sheathing offers better long term performance and structural integrity 1/2 sheathing.

It’s less likely to warp or sag as the years go by.

If you look at older homes, you’ll often notice that the ones with 5/8″ sheathing still have smoother, more even roofs.

Another cool thing about 5/8″ sheathing is that it’s better at holding nails in place. This is super important in windy areas or if you’re using heavier roofing materials.

The nails can go in deeper, which means they’re less likely to pop out over time.

While 1/2″ sheathing can still do a good job in many cases, going with 5/8″ might help you sleep better at night knowing your roof is extra sturdy.

#4 Cost And Installation Considerations

1/2″ sheathing is cheaper than 5/8″, both for the materials and labor. The thinner sheets are lighter and easier to handle, which can make the job go faster and cost less in labor.

If you’re trying to stick to a budget, it can be a good choice.

But here’s something to think about: while 5/8″ sheathing might cost more upfront, it could save you money in the long run.

Because it’s tougher, you might not need to fix or replace your roof as often.

Plus, in some cases, using 5/8″ sheathing means you don’t need to use H-clips between rafters, which could offset some of the extra cost.

#5 Roofing Material Compatibility

The type of roofing material you want to use can also help decide between 1/2″ or 5/8″ sheathing.

For regular asphalt shingles, which aren’t too heavy, 1/2″ sheathing is usually fine if your rafters or trusses are spaced right. But if you’re going for something heavier like clay tiles, slate, or fancy architectural shingles, you might need the extra strength of 5/8″ sheathing.

Also check out our Edina Roof replacement services.

It’s also worth mentioning that some roofing material makers have specific rules about how thick your sheathing needs to be.

You must follow these rules to keep your warranty valid.

So always check what the roofing material manufacturer says before you decide.

#6 Weight And Handling

The weight difference between 1/2″ and 5/8″ sheathing might not seem like a big deal, but it can matter when you’re actually putting the roof on.

The 1/2″ sheets are lighter, which makes them easier to move around, especially on steep roofs or in tight spots.

This can make the job go faster and be safer for the workers.

On the flip side, 5/8″ sheets are heavier, but some roofers like how solid they feel when walking on them during installation.

Building Code Compliance

Now, no matter what you prefer, you’ve got to follow your local building codes.

These codes often have specific rules about how thick your roof sheathing needs to be, based on things like:

How steep your roof is
How tall your building is
What the weather’s like in your area

These rules can be really different depending on where you live.

For example, some places that get hit by hurricanes or lots of snow might require 5/8″ sheathing for all homes. In other areas with milder weather, 1/2″ might be totally fine.

It’s super important to check with your local building department or a licensed contractor to make sure your choice meets all the rules.

Should You Choose 5/8 Or 1/2 Roof Sheathing?

Deciding between 5/8″ and 1/2″ roof sheathing really depends on your specific situation.

If you live somewhere with extreme weather, have a complicated or steep roof, or plan to use heavy roofing materials, 5/8″ sheathing is probably the way to go.

It’s stronger, lasts longer, and might even save you money in the long run.

But if you’re in an area with normal weather, have a simple roof that isn’t too steep, and you’re using regular roofing materials, 1/2″ sheathing might be just fine.

It can save you some money without sacrificing too much performance, as long as it meets your local building codes.